How to Detect Your Skin Undertone
Ever wondered why some colors look amazing on you while others wash you out? The secret lies in your skin undertone—the subtle hue beneath your skin's surface that affects how colors complement your appearance. Understanding your undertone is essential for choosing flattering makeup, clothing, and even hair colors.
While surface skin tone can change with sun exposure or season, your undertone remains constant throughout your life. It's determined by genetics and the types of melanin in your skin. Let's explore the science behind undertones and discover simple methods to identify yours.
Real Story: "I spent years buying foundation that never quite matched," says Maya, 28. "One day, a makeup artist told me I had cool undertones, not warm. That single realization changed everything—from my lipstick choices to which jewelry I wear. Now I understand why silver looks better on me than gold, and why certain dress colors make me glow while others make me look tired."
What Are Skin Undertones?
Skin undertone refers to the subtle color underneath your skin's surface. Unlike your surface tone (which can be light, medium, or dark), your undertone falls into three main categories: warm, cool, or neutral. This characteristic is genetically determined and remains consistent regardless of tanning, seasonal changes, or skin conditions.
The undertone is primarily influenced by the ratio and distribution of melanin types in your skin—eumelanin (brown-black pigment) and pheomelanin (red-yellow pigment). These melanin types are controlled by genetic variations in genes like MC1R, SLC24A5, SLC45A2, and TYRP1, which affect how your skin interacts with light and which colors appear most flattering.
🎨 The Three Undertone Types
Warm Undertones: Golden, peachy, or yellow hues beneath the skin. Associated with higher pheomelanin levels.
Cool Undertones: Pink, red, or blue hues beneath the skin. Associated with specific eumelanin distributions.
Neutral Undertones: A balanced mix of warm and cool tones, or an olive complexion that doesn't lean strongly either way.
The Science Behind Undertones
Skin undertone is the result of complex interactions between melanin pigments, blood vessels, and the way light scatters through your skin layers. Here's what determines your undertone at a biological level:
Melanin Types and Distribution
Your skin contains two main types of melanin produced by melanocytes in the basal layer of your epidermis:
- Eumelanin: Brown-black pigment that provides darker coloration and UV protection. Higher eumelanin typically correlates with cooler undertones.
- Pheomelanin: Red-yellow pigment more common in lighter skin types. Higher pheomelanin ratios create warmer, golden undertones.
The genetic variants you inherit determine which type of melanin your melanocytes produce more of, creating your unique undertone signature.
Key Genes Involved
Several genes influence your undertone by regulating melanin production and skin pigmentation:
| Gene | Function | Undertone Effect |
|---|---|---|
| MC1R | Regulates melanin type production | Variants increase pheomelanin (warm/golden tones) |
| SLC24A5 | Controls melanin synthesis | Major determinant of light vs. dark skin tone |
| SLC45A2 | Involved in melanin production | Affects overall skin lightness and undertone |
| TYRP1 | Influences eumelanin production | Higher activity associated with cool undertones |
| OCA2/HERC2 | Regulates melanin in skin and eyes | Affects overall pigmentation patterns |
According to research published in Nature Genetics, these genes work together in complex pathways to determine your complete pigmentation profile, including undertone.
Blood Vessels and Light Scattering
Your undertone isn't solely about melanin. The visibility of blood vessels through your skin (particularly in areas like wrists and face) also contributes:
- Cool undertones: More visible blood vessels create pink or blue hues
- Warm undertones: Thicker skin or higher melanin masks vessels, allowing golden tones to dominate
- Neutral undertones: Balanced visibility creates neither strongly warm nor cool appearance
7 Simple Tests to Detect Your Undertone
You don't need expensive equipment or professional analysis to determine your undertone. These seven at-home tests use everyday observations to reveal your skin's hidden hues:
Test 1: The Vein Test
Look at the veins on the inside of your wrist under natural daylight:
- Blue or purple veins: Cool undertones
- Green or olive veins: Warm undertones
- Blue-green mix (hard to tell): Neutral undertones
This test works because vein color is influenced by how light penetrates your skin. Warmer undertones (more yellow pigment) make blue veins appear greenish, while cooler undertones allow the blue to show through clearly.
Test 2: The White Paper Test
Hold a piece of bright white paper next to your bare, makeup-free face in natural light:
- Your skin looks yellowish or golden: Warm undertones
- Your skin looks pink, rosy, or blueish: Cool undertones
- Your skin looks gray or you can't tell: Neutral or olive undertones
The pure white provides a neutral reference point that makes subtle undertone differences more visible.
Test 3: The Jewelry Test
Which metal looks better against your skin—gold or silver?
- Gold jewelry complements your skin: Warm undertones
- Silver jewelry looks best: Cool undertones
- Both look equally good: Neutral undertones
This phenomenon occurs because warm-toned skin harmonizes with the yellow hues in gold, while cool-toned skin complements silver's blue-white tones.
Test 4: The Sun Reaction Test
How does your skin typically react to sun exposure?
- Tan easily with golden glow: Often indicates warm undertones
- Burn easily or turn pink: Often indicates cool undertones
- Tan gradually without burning or excessive redness: May indicate neutral undertones
This correlation exists because warm undertones typically have more pheomelanin, which provides less UV protection but tans more readily.
Test 5: The Clothing Color Test
Hold different colored fabrics near your face in natural light:
| Undertone | Flattering Colors | Unflattering Colors |
|---|---|---|
| Warm | Oranges, yellows, browns, olive greens, warm reds | Cool blues, purples, pure black |
| Cool | Blues, purples, emerald greens, cool reds, true white | Oranges, golden yellows, warm browns |
| Neutral | Most colors work well, especially dusty/muted tones | Very few colors look truly bad |
Colors that match your undertone create harmony and make your skin appear brighter and more even-toned.
Test 6: The Eye Color Correlation
While not definitive, eye color can provide clues to your undertone:
- Blue, gray, or green eyes: More commonly paired with cool undertones
- Brown, amber, or hazel eyes: More commonly paired with warm undertones
- Deep brown or black eyes: Can occur with any undertone
This pattern exists because some of the same genes (like OCA2 and HERC2) influence both skin and eye pigmentation. However, this test should be combined with others for accuracy.
Test 7: The Foundation Match Test
Look at foundations you've tried that matched well:
- Labels with "golden," "warm," or "beige": Warm undertones
- Labels with "pink," "cool," or "rose": Cool undertones
- Labels with "neutral," "natural," or finding matches from both categories: Neutral undertones
Understanding Mixed and Complex Undertones
Not everyone fits neatly into warm, cool, or neutral categories. Some people have what's called "olive undertones"—a greenish or grayish cast that can appear in any surface tone from very light to very dark.
Olive undertones occur when you have a specific combination of melanin types that creates this unique appearance. People with olive skin often find that they don't match standard foundation undertones and may need to mix shades.
Additionally, some people have different undertones in different areas of their face (combination undertones), particularly if they have conditions like rosacea or hyperpigmentation. In these cases, match your foundation to your neck and chest rather than your face.
Why Undertone Matters
Knowing your undertone has practical applications beyond makeup:
- Makeup selection: Foundation, concealer, blush, and lipstick that match your undertone look more natural and flattering
- Clothing choices: Colors that harmonize with your undertone make your skin appear brighter and more even
- Hair color: Dye shades that complement your undertone enhance your overall appearance
- Jewelry selection: Metals that match your undertone accentuate rather than clash with your natural coloring
- Photography: Understanding your undertone helps you choose better lighting and editing adjustments
According to research from the National Institutes of Health, genetic variations in pigmentation genes don't just affect appearance—they also influence vitamin D synthesis, UV sensitivity, and skin health, making undertone awareness relevant for skincare as well.
đź’ˇ Undertone vs. Surface Tone: Key Differences
Surface Tone: Your visible skin color (light, medium, tan, dark). Changes with sun exposure, seasons, and skin conditions.
Undertone: The subtle hue beneath the surface (warm, cool, neutral). Genetically determined and remains constant throughout life.
Example: Two people can both have light surface tones, but one has cool pink undertones while the other has warm golden undertones. They would need different foundation shades despite similar overall lightness.
Common Mistakes When Determining Undertone
Avoid these pitfalls when trying to identify your undertone:
- Testing in artificial lighting: Always use natural daylight, as indoor lights (especially fluorescent) distort color perception
- Looking at tanned skin: Wait until any tan has faded to assess your true undertone
- Relying on a single test: Use multiple methods to confirm your undertone category
- Confusing redness with cool undertones: Temporary redness from rosacea, acne, or irritation isn't the same as cool undertones
- Assuming undertone matches ethnicity: People of all ethnic backgrounds can have warm, cool, or neutral undertones
Frequently Asked Questions
Can your undertone change over time?
No, your genetic undertone remains constant throughout life. However, your surface tone can change due to sun exposure, aging, hormones, or health conditions. Some people mistakenly believe their undertone has changed when actually their surface tone has darkened or lightened.
What if I still can't determine my undertone?
If multiple tests give conflicting results, you likely have neutral undertones or olive skin. You may also have combination undertones. In this case, focus on testing how different colors and products look on your skin rather than trying to fit into a category.
Do siblings have the same undertone?
Not necessarily. Since undertone is influenced by multiple genes inherited independently, siblings can have different undertones even with similar surface tones. Learn more about why siblings often look different.
Is undertone the same across all ethnicities?
No. While warm, cool, and neutral undertones exist across all ethnic groups, the specific genetic variants that create them vary. For example, East Asian individuals often have yellow-based warm or neutral undertones, while some African ancestry individuals may have red or golden warm undertones. The science of ethnicity and phenotypes explains these patterns.
Practical Tips for Using Your Undertone Knowledge
Once you've determined your undertone, here's how to make the most of this information:
For Makeup Shopping
- Test foundation on your jawline, not your wrist or hand
- Look at the product in natural daylight before purchasing
- Choose lipsticks with undertones that match yours (warm → coral, orange-red; cool → berry, blue-red)
- Consider your skin tone when selecting blush colors
For Wardrobe Building
- Build your capsule wardrobe around colors that flatter your undertone
- Use accent colors from your "unflattering" category sparingly or away from your face
- Pay special attention to undertone when choosing items near your face (scarves, collared shirts)
For Hair Coloring
- Warm undertones: Choose golden, honey, copper, or warm brown tones
- Cool undertones: Choose ash, platinum, cool brown, or burgundy tones
- Neutral undertones: Most hair colors will work; experiment freely
Conclusion
Your skin undertone is a permanent genetic characteristic that influences how colors interact with your appearance. By understanding whether you have warm, cool, neutral, or olive undertones, you can make more informed choices about makeup, clothing, hair color, and accessories.
The simple tests outlined in this article—from examining your veins to testing jewelry metals—provide reliable methods to determine your undertone at home. Remember to conduct tests in natural daylight and combine multiple methods for the most accurate results.
Once you discover your undertone, you'll notice how much easier it becomes to choose products and colors that make you look your best. This genetic trait, influenced by genes like MC1R, SLC24A5, and others, is part of what makes your appearance uniquely yours—a fascinating intersection of genetics, biology, and personal style.